Cat Walk

Today we walked. And walked. And walked some more. 12,914 steps, according to the pedometer,  around Madrid´s Madridiest´s neighbourhood, La Latina. 
 

the many colours of jesus

I listened to a podcast about crows this summer, and one of the speakers noted how she found it absurd when people talk about going out into nature. Nature, she said, can be found everywhere. Even sitting on a bench and watching the crows. While I do enjoy "getting back to nature," in that spirit, I don´t need to "go for a walk". I walk everywhere! So today we´re staying in the city, enjoying the architecture, people, and yes, even pigeons, the city environment has to offer.
 

plaza mayor

La Latina has a medieval vibe, with twisting and turning streets lined with quirky shops and tapas restaurants opening onto sunny squares. Being the historical centre of Madrid means a wide range of architectural influences, from Arabic tiles to French balconies, lots to see before we even get to today´s main event, El Rastro market.

el rastro

the cane stall

If you want to get really catty, in the best kind of way (gato, or cat, is what the locals call, well, locals), get up early on Sunday and head to El Rastro. We began our walk in Embajadores, checking out vendors along Calle de Toledo, stopping to hear the organ grinder (who, I kid you not, is pictured in my 1999 Madrid guidebook), and heading up Ribera de Curtidores. This street is a mix of old and new, but from tacky souvenirs to handmade leather goods. Whatever you´re looking for, you can be pretty sure you´ll find it at El Rastro. Plastic rosaries in every colour, gas masks, flamenco dancer aprons, all kinds of corks, well curated antique shops, knives, pets, the cheapest underwear you´ll ever see, scarves, CDs, kitchen gadgets, batteries... It´s a never-ending feast for the eyes.

Once we´d had enough of the crowds (we only covered about a third of the market), we made our way to the Plaza Mayor, the opera house, the Royal Palace, and finally Plaza España. It´s a lot of walking, but there´s always something interesting to see, and the time passes quickly. Today we saw a human sculpture of two riders on a motorcycle going over a bump (Baby loved that), a man blowing giant bubbles to the delight of about a dozen children who were screaming and running wild with delight, seven brides posing for a group photograph, and an accordion and flamenco guitar player, both of whom Baby delighted by dancing and snapping his fingers. I call it his ¨olé¨ move. 

brides in plaza españa

It didn´t have the freshness of a pine forest, but a walk through Old Madrid refreshed my appreciation of my Second City. 

leading the way

Country Roads

Saturated with sights seen, shopped and dropped, no room for any more tapas.

What´s a girl with house guests to do?

Head for the hills. Boot it for the country. Show them another side of Spain.

We headed toward El Escorial, turned off the main highway, and drove down a bumpy country road, parking the car when we could drive no further. We left the car, unlatched the gate, and started on our way. We were headed for Felipe's Seat, a royal lookout over El Escorial and Madrid.

Felipe´s Sceat is a lookout point said to have been used by Felipe II to oversee construction of El Escorial. Apart from a bird´s eye view of the monastery and environs, the area has some nice hiking trails through the Herreria Forest. We came through an area called Los Ermitanos. The path was wide and clearly marked with red and white trail markers, taking us by some private residences (hence the gates - feel free to use the paths, but remember to close the gates!), through a forest of wild cherry, Montpellier maple, and chestnut trees, a picnic area, and two lookouts. It´s possible to drive almost all the way to Felipe´s Seat (there is even a bar up there...this is Spain, remember?), and start the hikes from there, but then you´d be missing out on a lovely country walk.

There were stairs up to both lookouts, and otherwise the climb was barely noticeable. Felipe´s Seat is a kind of throne carved into granite. There are three viewing areas, the most popular is an actual pair of stone seats with arm rests facing North, toward the Monastery of El Escorial. If you´ve been there, you know it´s big, but it is quite something to see just how much space it takes up. Truly an impressive building. 

We came back into the city feeling refreshed and ready for a cozy night in, dinner, tea, and organizing photos. It´s getting chilly out there!

Snowed Out

It was a beautiful, clear day in Madrid, so we booked a table at La Chiminea and headed for the mountains to work up an appetite, since it´s really not the kind of place where you "just have a salad". Abuelo, Abuela, Tia, Perro, Baby, Tall Guy, and Tall Girl, a plan for a perfect Saturday in the mountains. But alas, it was not to be. There was snow in the mountains. We´re not talking Spanish snow, which counts as ten flakes in the air. No, we´re talking snow a Canadian recognizes as a dump of the white stuff. And the wind! So bitter! So I whipped out our trusty hiking guide and picked something at a lower altitude, where the sun was shining and the wind wasn´t driving little knives into our faces. 

La Jarosa.

There are lots of walking options in this recreation area, including following the shoreline around a reservoir or even renting a little boat to go for a paddle, but we stuck with the classic Spanish option of starting at the bar and heading for the ruins. The bar had a rip roaring fire going, so we got nice and toasty before heading out. It was one of the only times we wore our winter coats, last winter was so mild!

This trail was not clearly marked, or at least not visibly so in the snow, so we picked our own way uphill to a forest access road, passing some docile cattle and crossing a brook where I was sure a talking beaver would appear. Talk about your Narnia moment - after escaping the breath of the White Witch on the mountain top, the breath of Aslan had appeared, sparkling snow and dripping icicles. 

did a faun just peek out at me?

We walked until our appetites were "opened up", as they say in Spanish, and our faces were tingling with the fresh air, and agreed trips back in fall and spring to see the area in different seasons would be in order. Then it was off to La Chiminea, where we polished off our meals with gusto, including dessert. When you´re prepared to go with the flow, a change of plans can turn into a pleasant surprise.

La Barranca

If you´re not really into hiking, but you want to give it a try, or you just need a bit of a break from the city, a walk through La Barranca Valley is a great option. You can follow a route or just meander by the crystal clear Navacerrada River. You can even refill your water bottle directly from the river for a refreshing drink. 

nature in art - velazquez. the mountain in the background at the right is the one in my pic below (source)

The great views start in the parking lot, where you can see La Bola del Mundo, a rocky mountain peak topped with TV antennas and signal repeaters. Spaniards love their TV, so this fact is a nice tidbit to drop into a conversation with one. It´s also interesting to note that snow and ice from this part of the mountain was stored in a nearby village and used for refrigeration. A Little House on the Spanish Mountain moment.

The views continue as you take in straight pines, two reservoirs, and finally the river itself. You´ll soon come to a recreation area (I love how prepared even the wild is in Spain - come visit! it seems to say. You can argue that it´s not really wild, but I say, let´s get people outside! And it´s really great to have convenient places to stop with Baby, not to mention trails that are well marked and maintained. It sure makes getting outside as a family easier!). 

Anyway, after the recreation area, be sure to look up. You might just see someone swinging through the trees on the high ropes course! That´s a trip for another day, without Baby, though. Keep walking and you´ll be able to cross the river, continue and you´ll come to a natural fountain. If you´re not too tired and feeling adventurous, follow the road to the right and you´ll come to the ruins of an old tuberculosis hospital, The Royal Sanatorium of Guadarrama. It will add a climb and about an hour round trip to your excursion.

Purgatory Falls

Waterfalls. Again, for a Canadian who grew up with Niagara Falls on her weekend travel circuit, it can be hard to be impressed. When Tall Guy suggested a hike to Madrid province´s highest falls, a whole 15 meters (!!), we tried to avoid any expectations. Sometimes, thanks to lack of rain, waterfalls in Spain are rather pitiful, just this side of completely dry. But I had wanted to visit a nearby monastery to hear their Gregorian Chant mass for a while, so we decided to combine the two.

We started the day with a trip to El Paular. The monastery was under construction, so we skipped the tour and went straight to the mass. It was very peaceful, listening to the ancient words and music, and we left feeling very calm.

We then went to the nearby Presillas Recreation Area, which could be a trip in itself! A beautiful expanse of flat land along the beautiful River Lozoya, a bar (obviously - it´s Spain, after all!), some shade trees, and even cows wandering around, it´s a great place to let kids run around and enjoy being outside. We hung around long enough to go over the map and directions, and to change Baby´s diaper, promising to spend some time on our way back.

The first part of the hike passes through a summer camp complex. Again, lots of people, and this time the crowds didn´t thin out. It was still very pleasant, and once we entered a more forested area, it was easy to find a quiet area for our picnic lunch. We took advantage of a smooth, flat rock, threw down a blanket, and let Baby kick and stretch while we ate. Our picnic was, for me, the highlight of the hike, and not just because the main dish was Tall Guy´s excellent tortilla española. It was just so nice to spend time as a family in nature, enjoying each other´s company.

baby is not impressed

There were many family groups, hikers of all ages and unfortunately several groups that had to turn back due to lack of proper gear. It´s quite common to see people in flip flops or without water along these types of trails - perhaps they had only planned on spending the day in the recreation area, and then a sense of adventure struck. It´s really sad to see unprepared hikers having a bad time on the trail. Yelling and tears do not need to be part of a family nature trip! Anyway, I can´t stress enough the importance of being prepared, even for a half day trip. We always, always pack at least three litres of water, healthy snacks, a first aid kit, and some basic survival tools. We dress in layers and wear appropriate footwear. You just really never know.

After walking through both oak and pine forests, we came to a lovely treed valley, where, on our return, a cow would join our merienda (afternoon tea)! The valley was idyllic, and the light was amazing. I kept expecting a fairy or a sprite to pop out and say hello. The most difficult part of the walk was after the valley. There was a bit of a scramble over a wet boulder, and a rocky climb up a narrow path. I was considering staying behind with Baby, but Tall Guy and a kind stranger made sure I felt secure and kept my balance, and in the end we arrived at the foot of Purgatory Falls as a family. The hike continued to a lookout from the top of the falls, but we left that for a future visit, when Baby is not a Baby and can do the climb himself!

our picnic crasher

We rested our feet at the recreation area, and took advantage of the beautiful light to take some pictures of Baby, and then we were on our way. A full day, but worth the drive and subsequent traffic jam. From the recreation area to the base of the falls was about 10 km, and took us more than the suggested three hours. We did take our time, and didn´t hurry over lunch or our afternoon snack.

Working up an appetite

There´s a restaurant we love in Guadarrama called La Chiminea. Friends of ours introduced us to it, and we can´t stop going! We went on our own, then went back with our parents, and again with friends, and Tall Guy even booked a team lunch there for work. Like its name says, there´s a chimney. and of course a fireplace, so my favourite time to eat there is on a fall or winter day, when it´s lit. Meals consist of huge portions of Spanish appetizers and local meat.

a view of the monastery through the trees

There was no fire on our last visit, but it was fun all the same. A friends reunion with a group of people we hadn´t seen all together in a while, and children were included. That´s a great thing about Spain. Children are almost always included. Anyway, before the meal, which we knew would be huge, we decided to take advantage of being out of the city and did a nearby hike. 

This hike starts and finishes at a restaurant, although not the one we ate it. It´s in the neighbouring town of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, and is called El Paseo de La Horizontal. If you´re in town, just ask for El Horizontal and the locals will be able to direct you. It´s not a huge walk, about 5km, and it´s pretty easy, under an hour and a half, fairly flat terrain, but the views of El Escorial and Madrid are noteworthy, and if you happen to be carrying someone the whole way, you´ll be hungry at the end!



We walked by old granite distance markers, copses of young chestnut trees, staggering pines, and over clear streams. We passed a shrine to, appropriately, Our Lady of the Way, and even saw a dear. It was very peaceful until Tall Guy said, "we´ve got to hurry, it´s almost time for lunch!".

the shrine to our lady of the way

Mojonavalle. The J sounds like an H.

Two summers ago, we went on a wonderful hiking trip in Northern Spain. More about that another day. Thanks to the success of that trip, we decided we wanted to make a concerted effort to hike as a family on a regular basis. This meant looking for some options closer to home. Naturally, I found a book. Excursions for Children in the Sierra of Madrid would be the title in English. Today´s review is the first hike we tried from the book. 

The Mojonavalle Forest. The name sounded promising, the specs looked good, but it can be hard to impress a Canadian with a forest, so I wasn´t expecting too much. Un magnífico bosque! Vegetación exuberante! Cascadas! claimed the book. While this is no hike in the Rockies, it is definitely worthy of all the exclamation marks. My only complaint was that it was crowded at first. But, pick a summer-like day in November, and a destination an hour from Madrid, and in wild mushroom season, and it´s bound to happen. 

just lovely!

This is a good half-day hike, around 6km, with lots of places to stop and play in the woods. The trail started in a parking lot that made mall parking at Christmas seem easy. After we parked (Tall Guy is a parking genius), we crossed the highway and started to climb immediately through a forested area with lots of fragrant pines, and some ruins (yay!) of old foraging shelters. There wasn´t really a path to follow until the terrain leveled out, and then we could have even taken Baby in his stroller! A wide, smooth, dirt track led us by a lookout and a hiking shelter. There were lots of interesting boulder formations dotting the path. 

Once at the shelter, we would have had to ditch the stroller. The path narrowed but was still well maintained, and that´s when things got beautiful. Golden leaves, verdant pines, shimmery bark, singing streams... there are few things I enjoy more than a walk in the woods. By this point, the crowds had thinned out, and by the time we got to the waterfall, we had it all to ourselves. We took Baby out to splash in the water. He is a great little hiking companion!

There is a recreation area at the parking lot, so we could have packed a picnic, but instead we drove to nearby Miraflores and sampled some dishes prepared with different varieties of wild mushrooms. Mmmmmm!

Same Park, Different Trail

Still in the Parque Nacional de la Sierra de Guadarrama, today´s hike is called El Septimo Pico (The Seventh Peak). It´s a pequeño recorrido that starts at the Puerta de Navacerrada and goes to the first mountain peak. (You could add on all six peaks, following a grand recorrido trail, if you are looking for a challenge.)

the snow virgin

We did this walk with another couple, whose son is a few months younger than ours. Both boys rode comfortably in their Stokke carriers (seriously the best "baby stuff" thing we bought!), and enjoyed taking tentative steps in the snow during our picnic at the halfway mark. This walk should have taken about three hours, but with our "scenic detour" (read: men not listening to my directions!) it was nearly four. A lovely way to spend a morning or an afternoon up in the mountains.

checking out the view

The walk starts at the same bar as the Camino Schmidt, but quickly goes off in the opposite direction (AHEM, listen to the visual learner who has the map). There´s a bit of a climb up a ski hill, but the trail then becomes fairly flat for the bulk of the walk. After walking by a chair lift station, we came to a sparse forest area and took a (planned) detour to see the Virgin of the Snow. When you´re hiking in Spain, there are all kinds of little detours that bring culture and nature together. Catholic statues and shrines, Roman ruins, Civil War bunkers... I say get off the beaten path to check them out!

walking and riding

After the flat, fairly clear area, we entered into a pine forest with a steady incline. At this point, the directions changed from "path" to "uphill" - it doesn´t matter how you get to the top, just keep climbing! The trees turn into scrub again, and the final climb is over fairly rocky terrain. There are lots of worn areas where people have obviously walked, and no lose rock, so still safe for carrying the babies. 

From the top, we had great views of Segovia and Madrid, thanks to the gorgeously clear spring day.

El Camino Schmidt: So nice we walked it twice!

Yesterday I didn´t write about a specific walk in Spain, only that there are lots of opportunities, so today it´s double duty with one walk we did twice, once in winter when I was pregnant, and again in the spring with Baby in our trusty carrier.

In Spain, official trails are classified as either PR (pequeño recorrido) or GR (grand recorrido), literally small or big hikes. El Camino Schmidt, in the Parque Nacional de la Sierra de Guadarrama, is a "small" hike that has the advantage of being almost entirely downhill. It starts at the Puerto de Navacerrada and winds its way down to Cercedilla and the Valle de la Fuenfría. The path crosses a ski run and enters a pine forest. If you´re in Madrid, pining away for some, well, pines (haha), this hike is for you: mountains, sweeping views of Madrid and Segovia, cold, clear mountain water, and pine scented air. Mmmmmaaaaahhhh! Now I want to go again!

The first time we walked this trail it was winter. You can, if you book your tickets in advance because you think everyone and their mother will be out to see real snow, take a train from Cercedilla up to Puerto de Navacerrada where the hike begins. Or, you can be Canadian and not factor in the novelty snow holds for the Spaniard, get to the train station in Cercedilla, and be told the next available train is on Monday. In that case, you hop on the park bus and make your way slowly, slowly, up the mountain. Lots of time to think about how you took those snow tires for granted back in the Motherland, and to give incredulous looks to the people talking about getting out the tire chains for the dusting of snow on the ground.

on the roman road

Once you´re at the top of the mountain, pop into the bar to buy the requisite Spanish snack, a bocadillo (baguette sandwich) wrapped in tinfoil, throw back a cup of steaming hot "caldo casero" (homemade broth), use the washroom, and you´re good to go. To begin, spend some time gauging speed, give up, and dash across a ski run to the well-marked trail head. Once your heart stops pounding, look around! 
You´re in a snow covered pine forest. It´s misty. There´s a brook. If you don´t have Narnia vibes by now, wait until you come across a small group of pensioners in fur coats, snowshoeing. For real.

The trail is easy and straightforward. You´ll come to a fountain, a great place to refill your water bottle and rest a bit, then it´s a bit of a climb to a viewpoint to take in the mountain range as well as Madrid. From there, the trail follows a Roman road down into the valley. On our way down, we met a troop of Scouts heading up for an overnight camping trip. I guess their leaders wanted to make sure they would sleep extra soundly up there!

From the valley, a long and boring sidewalk leads back into Cercedilla to the train station and car park. We kept that in mind for round two.

The second time we did this hike we booked our tickets in advance, and so went by train from Cercedilla to Puerto de Navacerrada. This option works if you´re car less as well, since you can take the train right from any station in Madrid. We also had two cars, and left one in the valley and one at the station, so no boring road! No bocadillo, since we had post-hike lunch reservations, and no skiers to contend with. 

almost finished!

El Camino Schmidt is about a four hour hike, 15 kilometers, and very little climbing. If you´re a "walker", go for it! If you´re not, you can take the train, get out and walk around, and then ride it right back down again. I did this trail at six months pregnant, and then carrying a one year old - the trail is well groomed and I felt completely secure both times (Tall Guy did make me wear ice grippers the first time, just in case). The old fashioned train ride is fun; however, I really think the snow is what gives this trail the wow factor. If you´re thinking about this trail, hopefully you can plan it on a snowy day!

Day 30: Four Spanish Sky Crappers

And we have arrived. If you´ve been to Madrid, I´m sure you´ve started thinking I´d missed out on something. The newest sky scraper complex.

Now, a lot of people do think of this area as sky crap - tall buildings and modernity are fine, but isn´t this pushing things a little too far? Others love the futuristic feel of the CTBA (Cuatro Torres Business Area). I love a discussion, and my point of view is somewhere in the middle. Did Madrid, in a real estate and construction crisis, really need this complex? Probably not. Do I think they´re attractive? From a distance. Do they freak me out a little? Yes. Tall Guy´s firm considered moving into one of them, and I have to say, I´m a little relieved it didn´t happen. Call it a post 9-11 / 11-M feeling of insecurity. 

Each tower was designed by a different architect. The "Box Tower" (guess which one...) is by Norman Foster. You can visit all of the towers and enjoy a panoramic view from the restaurants way, way up there. Or stay overnight in a luxury hotel! I prefer the view OF the towers to the view FROM them. They definitely add a little "something-something-something-something" to the skyline of Madrid.

Day 29: Don Limpio (Mr Clean)

It´s Superman! No, it´s Spiderman! No, wait, it´s... Don Limpio!

I´ve been watching all month, hoping to see someone rappelling down the side of a building, and finally on the third-last day, one caught my eye.

According to Spanish E-How, "the job of a window washer can be very exciting and well paid. From the 50th floor of a building, the window washer likely works with a partner and they share amazing views. However, working on scaffolding and with other elevation tools, it is one of the most dangerous jobs out there. If you decide to pursue a career in window washing, prepare to face regularly all types of weather and dangerous conditions."

Wow. It really does sound like a job for a super hero. Enter, Don Limpio, what the Spanish call Mr Clean. 

Lower floor windows are usually washed by "regular" cleaning assistants. They clean everything, including windows, both inside and out. Hourly, they can´t charge as much as a dedicated window cleaner, especially if he or she has completed certification with the International Window Cleaning Association. I had no idea that was a thing! Smart idea - you wouldn´t want to get all the way up to floor 112 only to realize you didn´t know how to make your washing cart go back down... Also, the higher the floors, the higher the charge, up to 25 euro an hour. 

This is a job that doesn´t get thought about unless you actually see someone doing it, or it hasn´t been done. Who goes around noticing streak-free windows? Dirty ones, yes, they get a comment or two. For businesses, it´s about good showcasing. Who would window shop through streaky windows? For homes, it´s about good housekeeping and the satisfaction of having the sun filter in without reminding you of a task you´ve left undone.
 
This window washer was checking the sealing along this glass encased elevator at El Corte Inglés on Serrano in Madrid. Note rooftop café. There is also an indoor space on the floor below, where, when the weather is not the best, you can enjoy some pretty sweet city views through streak-free windows.

Day 28: Don´t make me come up there and get you!

What parent, teacher or caregiver has ever said that to a kid and followed through? As if we´re going to climb up the tree, fence or streetlight the child has decided to perch on. 

on the far left. if you didn´t know they were there, you´d miss them.

Anyway, check out these four, perched precariously on the Puerta de Alcalá. We go by this monument at least weekly on the way to Super Guy´s play group (so far he hasn´t tried to climb up anything, but it´s only a matter of time before the monkey business begins).

i love the vain one on the far right. "check me out!"

The statues represent Prudence, Justice, Temperance and Strength. Prudence is the one with the mirror.

Day 27: And it´s over nearly before it began

Another iconic building in Madrid is this one on Calle Alcalá. The back has been demolished, and the idea is to build office space and a luxury hotel while maintaining the historic facade. I love the dome on this one, and I love looking at these types of demo projects. How did they get everything except the facade and dome to fall down?? Crazy.

Unfortunately, the project is currently stopped because part of the historic interior, which was supposed to be protected, was destroyed. Oops. 
 

i love this view- cranes, domes, statues, the facade...

Day 26: Word

I just had to share the sky scraper of words we saw today at CentroCentro. I love it! We went to see the Kandinsky exhibition (worth it on a Monday, when it´s 5 euro, but I would skip the 11 euro entry fee unless you really, really love Kandinsky. A lot.). There´s always more than one thing going on in CentroCentro, and until November 1 it´s architecture.

It´s called La Torre de Igualdad, the Tower of Equality, by Angel Baltasar. The artist gathered words and phrases from marginalized people trying to fit into society. A fitting installation not only for Architecture Week, but also for Madrid and Spain as a whole as they prepare to accept thousands of refugees, for the immigrants who are here, as the nationalisation process has recently been changed, and a reminder that we could all work to be more inclusive.

a close up of some of the words

Day 25: Double Take

A beautiful, colourful dome and a beautiful, colourful sky.

Day 24: A Stony Eagle Spotted

 

Sometimes it´s all about timing. And paying attention. I just happened to look up the other day, and I saw an eagle! He was made of stone, but still. Madrid is a great city for stone animal spotting. There is a whole zoo out there just waiting to be discovered, including a tiny stone squirrel. I think a fun travel game would be to make a list of animals and see who can find the most. It would definitely keep kids (and fussy adults!) walking longer!

.

Day 23: The Other First Spanish Sky Crapper

check out the rest of the list here

"I remember when that sky crapper went up," said Spanish Sister. "Before, we thought some buildings in Madrid were big. The communications tower, some hotels, our block of flats. And then we were all impressed by this new one. After that, lots of tall buildings came to Madrid, but I will always remember the Torre Picasso as the first one."

The Torre Picasso, at 43 floors (topped by a rooftop heliport), was the tallest building in Madrid from 1988 to 2007. Built by American architect Minoru Yamasaki, who designed the original World Trade Center in New York City. An interesting connection to the home of the sky scraper.


It certainly has an American feel. Big! Offices! Lights! And it has made the free daily paper´s Top 20 Architectural Wonders of Spain list. 

 

Even though Madrid has jumped on the sky scraper bandwagon, the Torre Picasso still impresses - you can see it from all over the city, a slice of white in the sky.

Day 22: Neither Up nor Down

(Teeny Little Super Guy loves that song, The Grand Old Duke of York.) 

There are some things that you don´t see if you don´t look up. You can walk right on by and miss so much. Even shops... 

I noticed Rangoon a few weeks ago, and finally went in today. 

"Have you been here long?"
 "Five years!"

Yikes.

If you´re walking by, talking to a friend or looking at your baby, you can miss it. If you´re looking up, you might look too high at the fabulously decorated balconies on the apartment building and miss it. You see, it´s neither up nor down. You have to look, well, halfway up. It´s between floors. The Spanish have a lovely word for this - entreplantas.

Definitely one of my new staple stores, this place is filled with, umm, staples. Lots of neutral colours, but also on-trend geometric and tribal prints. Dresses, trousers, tops, belts (I love belts!), bracelets... AND it has a fabulous change room - there is silver velvet couch and you enjoy a complimentary hot beverage as you flip through one of dozens of current fashion magazines for inspiration. 

Free drinks? A change room the size of a small apartment? Did you win the lottery - we thought you were on leave? Despite the exclusive atmosphere and carefully curated selection, there are no sky-high surprises on the price tags. Hooray!

Day 21: Anchors Away?

Back in the Plaza de Colón, we´re taking a look at one of the four anchor sculptures. Anchor is not the first thing I thought of when I looked at these sculptures. In fact, I used to think they had something to do with the Spanish Civil War. This is not so. Dedicated to the "discovery" of the "new world", the monument is called Monument to the Discovery of America, and is made up of three concrete sculptures, named The Prophecies, The Discovery and The Genesis. Each sculpture is covered with quotes from famous Hispanic texts. The Discovery has excerpts from Chilam Balam (The Book of the Jaguar), the Maya prophecy that stated the Mayan people would face dangerous conquistadores from the West.  

by sculptor Joaquín Vaquero Turcios

Day 20: Phoenix Falling

If you´ve been to Madrid, you´ve seen it. You´ll have been by on the tourist bus or strolling past down Gran Vía. You´ve probably snapped some pics of you and your travelling companions with it in the background. Oh, and it was the tallest building in Madrid until 1921 (not that this clue will help you figure it out unless you´re really into Madrid facts...).

That´s right, it´s the Metrópolis Building. It used to be the Unión y Fénix building, and was topped with, obviously, a phoenix. That statue (Ganymede riding the phoenix) can now be seen at ground level on the Paseo de Castellana. The Unión y Fénix became the Metrópolis building after a sale in the 70s, and along with the name change it received new statues. At ground level (covered up for restorations at them moment), the statues represent Mining, Agriculture, Industry and Commerce. Overseeing it all  is Winged Victory. Just as stunning is the cupola, which is adorned with around 30,000 gold leaf pieces of 24 carat gold.